← All Guides
Free Guide

Pre-Build Checklist

60 checkpoints across 10 stages of a residential build. Print it, stick it on the wall, and tick them off as you go. Missing one of these can cost you thousands or months of delays.

8 min read
10 printable pages
Updated March 2026

What you'll get

  • 60 actionable checkpoints covering the full build lifecycle
  • Who is responsible for each task (you, trade, council, certifier)
  • Common mistakes and tips for each checkpoint
  • Printable checkbox format — stick it on your site office wall
  • Organised by build stage so you can track progress linearly

How to use this guide

  1. 1.Print this guide or save as PDF
  2. 2.Work through each stage in order — don't skip ahead
  3. 3.Tick off each item only when fully completed and verified
  4. 4.Keep this on-site so you can reference it during inspections
  5. 5.Use the 'Who' field to know when to chase trades vs council vs certifier

Stage 1: Pre-Construction

Everything that needs to happen before a shovel hits dirt. This is where most owner-builders lose months — get it right and the rest flows.

Development Application (DA) or Complying Development Certificate (CDC) approved
Who: You + Council / Private Certifier
CDC is faster (10 days vs 40+ for DA) but only works for straightforward builds that meet all DCP controls.
Construction Certificate (CC) obtained
Who: Private Certifier
You can't start construction without this. The CC confirms your plans comply with the Building Code of Australia.
Owner-builder permit/licence obtained
Who: You
Requirements vary by state — NSW needs Fair Trading approval for work >$10K. Check your state guide.
Home warranty insurance arranged (if required)
Who: You
Required in most states for work over $20K. Must be in place BEFORE construction starts.
Contract works insurance in place
Who: You
Covers the structure during construction against fire, storm, theft, vandalism. Non-negotiable.
Public liability insurance ($20M minimum)
Who: You
Protects you if a trade or visitor is injured on your site. Most trades require you to have this.
Workers compensation arranged (if hiring labourers)
Who: You
Only needed if you're directly employing labourers. Subcontractors should carry their own.
Soil / geotechnical report completed
Who: Geotechnical Engineer
Determines your slab type and footing design. Reactive soil = more expensive slab.
Survey (boundary + levels) completed
Who: Registered Surveyor
Confirms your boundary lines and site levels. Building over the boundary is catastrophic.
Engineering drawings finalised
Who: Structural Engineer
Separate from architectural plans — the engineer sizes your footings, steel, and bracing.

Stage 2: Site Preparation

Getting the site ready for construction. The cost here depends heavily on whether you're demolishing an existing structure.

Demolition completed (if knockdown rebuild)
Who: Demolition Contractor
Ensure they provide a demolition plan, asbestos report, and council notification.
Asbestos inspection and removal (if pre-1990 structure)
Who: Licensed Asbestos Assessor + Removalist
NEVER handle asbestos yourself. Fines are up to $50,000 and it's genuinely dangerous.
Site cleared and levelled
Who: Earthworks Contractor
If the site needs a cut/fill, get the geotech to sign off on compaction before pouring.
Temporary fencing installed
Who: You / Fencing Contractor
Required by council on all construction sites. 1.8m high, temporary pool fencing works.
Portaloo delivered
Who: Hire Company
Required on-site from day one. Budget $200-300/month.
Temporary power and water connected
Who: Electrician + Plumber
Apply through your local distributor. Can take 2-4 weeks — do this early.
Skip bin or waste management plan in place
Who: You / Waste Contractor
A dedicated skip from frame stage onwards saves constant cleanup. Budget $400-600 per skip.

Stage 3: Slab / Foundations

The slab is your build's foundation — literally. Mistakes here are the most expensive to fix because everything sits on top of it.

Under-slab plumbing rough-in completed and inspected
Who: Plumber + Certifier
MUST be done before the pour. Triple-check pipe positions against your bathroom/kitchen layout.
Termite barrier / treatment installed
Who: Pest Control
Physical and/or chemical barrier required by BCA. Keep the certificate — you'll need it at handover.
Reinforcement (reo mesh + bar) laid per engineering specs
Who: Concreter
Your engineer specifies the reo schedule. Bar chairs must be at the right height.
Pre-slab inspection passed
Who: Private Certifier
The certifier must inspect the slab setup BEFORE the pour. No inspection = no pour.
Concrete poured, finished, and curing
Who: Concreter
Slab needs 7+ days to cure before framing. Keep it wet in hot weather.
Post-slab survey completed
Who: Registered Surveyor
Confirms the slab is in the right position and at the right level. Required by certifier.

Stage 4: Frame

Framing is when your build starts looking like a house. It's also the most physically impressive — and expensive — stage.

Wall frames erected and braced
Who: Carpenter / Framer
Check all frames are plumb and square before the certifier arrives. Use a long spirit level.
Roof trusses installed
Who: Carpenter + Crane Operator
Trusses are engineered — never modify them on-site without engineer approval.
Structural steel installed (lintels, posts, beams)
Who: Steel Fabricator + Carpenter
Verify steel sizes match engineering drawings. Wrong steel = structural failure.
Frame inspection passed
Who: Private Certifier
The certifier checks frames, bracing, and tie-downs against engineering specs. Must pass before cladding.
Scaffolding in place for upper work
Who: Scaffolding Company
Budget $2,000-5,000 depending on house size. Don't let trades use ladders for extended work.

Stage 5: Lockup

Lockup means the house is weather-tight — roof on, windows in, external cladding done. After this, internal trades can work rain or shine.

Roof sheeting / tiles installed
Who: Roofer
Check for any gaps, lifted sheets, or missing screws before the roofer leaves site.
Fascia, guttering, and downpipes installed
Who: Roofer / Plumber
Downpipes must connect to stormwater — not just dump water at the foundation.
Windows and external doors installed
Who: Window Installer
Check all windows open/close correctly and flashing is properly sealed.
External cladding / brickwork completed
Who: Bricklayer / Cladding Installer
Verify weep holes are clear and wall ties are properly installed.
Wall wrapping / sarking installed
Who: Carpenter / Cladding Team
Required by BCA for weather protection and energy efficiency.

Stage 6: Roughing (First Fix)

The "guts" of the house — plumbing pipes, electrical wiring, and HVAC ducting all go in before the walls are closed up.

Plumbing rough-in (above slab)
Who: Plumber
Verify hot/cold pipe positions match your bathroom and kitchen plans.
Electrical rough-in (wiring, switchboard, GPO positions)
Who: Electrician
Walk through every room with your electrician and mark GPO/switch positions on the frame.
HVAC ducting installed (if ducted A/C)
Who: HVAC Installer
Must be done before insulation goes in. Check duct sizes match the HVAC engineer's spec.
Data / ethernet cabling run
Who: Data Cabler / Electrician
Run Cat6 to every room you might want ethernet. Wi-Fi is not a substitute for wired connections.
Insulation installed (walls and ceiling)
Who: Insulation Installer
Must meet the R-values specified in your energy report. Common shortcut area — check it yourself.

Stage 7: Fitout (Second Fix)

The house starts looking like a home. Plasterboard goes up, then cabinetry, tiling, and all the fit-off trades come through.

Plasterboard installed and stopped (sanded smooth)
Who: Plasterer
Run a light along the walls at night to check for imperfections before painting.
Waterproofing completed in wet areas
Who: Waterproofer
The membrane must be inspected and pass BEFORE tiling. No shortcuts — leaks destroy houses.
Waterproofing inspection passed
Who: Private Certifier
Certifier must sign off on the waterproofing membrane. Tiles cannot go on without this.
Tiling completed (floor and wall)
Who: Tiler
Check grout lines are consistent and no tiles are hollow (tap them — a hollow sound means poor adhesion).
Cabinetry installed (kitchen, bathroom, laundry)
Who: Cabinet Maker
Check all doors and drawers operate smoothly. Soft-close should be fitted to everything.
Benchtops installed
Who: Stonemason / Fabricator
Template AFTER cabinetry is installed, not before. Measure twice, cut once.

Stage 8: Finishing

The final trades. Painting, fit-off (taps, lights, switches), and all the details that make a house liveable.

Internal painting completed (walls, ceilings, trims)
Who: Painter
3 coats minimum — 1 primer + 2 finish. Check in natural light for missed spots.
External painting / render completed
Who: Painter / Renderer
External paint should be acrylic-based for weather resistance.
Plumbing fit-off (taps, toilets, basins, showers)
Who: Plumber
Turn on every tap and flush every toilet. Check for leaks under all basins.
Electrical fit-off (lights, GPOs, switches, smoke alarms)
Who: Electrician
Test every single power point and light switch. Check smoke alarms are interconnected.
Floor coverings installed (carpet, timber, vinyl)
Who: Flooring Installer
Flooring goes in AFTER painting to avoid paint splatter. Protect with drop sheets during remaining work.
Door hardware installed (handles, locks)
Who: Carpenter
All external doors must have deadlocks. Test every lock and keep all keys together.

Stage 9: Landscaping

Driveway poured / paved
Who: Concreter / Paver
Driveway must slope away from the house for stormwater drainage.
Fencing completed (permanent)
Who: Fencing Contractor
Check boundary pegs before installing. Building on the neighbour's side is a costly fix.
Paths, steps, and retaining walls done
Who: Landscaper / Concreter
All paths should slope away from the house. 1-2% fall is standard.
Turf / garden beds installed
Who: Landscaper
Turf needs daily watering for 2-3 weeks to establish. Budget for the water bill.
Letterbox and clothesline installed
Who: You / Handyman
The clothesline is often the last thing installed and the first thing you need.

Stage 10: Handover

The final stretch. Inspections, sign-offs, and getting the keys to your new home.

Final inspection passed
Who: Private Certifier
The certifier walks the entire property. Fix any defects before requesting this inspection.
Occupation Certificate (OC) issued
Who: Private Certifier
You CANNOT legally live in the house without an OC. This is the most important document.
All trade warranties and certificates collected
Who: You
Collect: waterproofing cert, termite cert, electrical cert, plumbing cert, gas cert, energy cert.
Final meter readings taken (power, water, gas)
Who: You
Take photos of all meters on handover day. Contact providers to switch from construction to residential.
Council notification of completion submitted
Who: You / Certifier
Some councils require you to notify them that construction is complete.
Home and contents insurance activated
Who: You
Switch from contract works insurance to home and contents on the day you get your OC.

Want this automated?

Bildr tracks your budget, checks trade quotes, manages compliance, and gives you a 24/7 AI build advisor — so you don't need spreadsheets.

Get My Build Plan — Free